Soil Basics

Not everyone knows what defines good soil, and 'good soil' might mean something different depending on your, or the plants requirements. So, lets break down the main points so you can better understand what you have, to easily determine what you need to build healthy soil.
Whilst there are many different soil types, I have decided to break it down as follows:
Soils are normally classified by their general composition being Sand, Silt & Clay. Organic matter,minerals, gases, liquids and organisms make up the rest of the soil structure. Soils described as loam, are those which contain a good balance between sand, silt & clay (40-40-20;sand,silt,clay) and is usually aerobic, meaning that air and water can easily move throught the soil which promotes good soil life. The most predominant part is what the soil type will be predominantly described as. E.g. Soils that are predominantly clay but that have some organic matter, sand and silt, could be described as loamy-clay. Or, loamy soils with a higher sand component, could be described as sandy-loam...and so on.
We all have an idea of what sand and clay is, so to help describe silt further it could be said that Silt particles, in size, are somewhere in between sand and clay. This is why mixing fine sands to clay soils in attempt to break them up, is a terrible idea. The particles simply blend and if the soil ever dehydrates, it turns into a concrete-like substance that is hydrophobic. To re-hydrate that, is an adventure on it's own. This is why i always say "compost makes the world go around". The addition of compost to clay soils aids aeration and doesnt bind to the clay. This gives the clay time to build some soil life, and in time, builds a great soil structure. Clay can be very useful as it has sturdy structure and can hold large amounts of water. The problem is that it often doesnt let go of that water and as we all know, nothing good comes from standing water. It suffocates soil life and plants, and in turn causes anaerobic soil conditions. Adding compost to sandy soils is also the best way to bring new life to it. The compost then becomes the moisture retention factor and structure, and the sand compliments drainage. The only downside is that leaching is more than if clay was a part of the components. For turf, sandy-loam is your friend, but unless you have a moneytree growing in your yard, you simply need to correct your current soil by making small additions over time. And yes, this will probably be with the addition of compost/applicable manures, good quality topsoil or silica sand. Follow your specific climate to tailor your soil requirements.  
To further this conversation, I have put together a list of soils with an image and a description below. Please do feel free to email info@backyardbushveld.co.za should you have any questions.

Sands

Building Sand

Building Sand

Building sand is often wrongfully used in the garden, and for lawncare. The reason I say it's used 'wrongfully' is because of it's properties and how it works against a positive soil structure. Even the people who produce building sand, labelled it as such so that you know it's for the construction industry. So why is it often seen to be used in the garden? Well, it's cheap. Another reason is that is looks very much like the sand used on putting greens and other professional turf projects. IT IS NOT THE SAME STUFF!!! I do not recommend using building sand to improve soil structure at all.

Riversand

Riversand

Riversand is also commonly seen being used in gardening, and for good reason. It contains a wide range of particle sizes and is made up from a variety of rock types. Whilst the very fine, powder-like, particles are not ideal especially in certain clay soils, the larger particles help improve drainage in many soil types. However, the larger particles are not ideal for use on your lawns, and certainly not for professional turf care, as it would damage mowers and other machinery, and in some cases it can cause unnecessary mechanical wear on the turf itself. I therefore can recommend this for general gardening if the circumstances call for it, but certainly not for topdressing lawns. 

Playpen Sand

Playpen Sand

While this is still silica sand, it is slightly too fine for use in turf care, and not very useful for aiding drainage in garden beds or potting soil mixes. Rather use riversand for that.  The incredibly fine texture, needed to protect little fingers and toes, also means that it costs more than most other options. 

USGA - Silica sand

USGA - silica sand

Silica sand is simply sand that comes from Silica sources, such as pure quartz grains, granite, gneiss and even sandstone.  The difference in the USGA grade version comes from the specific particle size range and purity of the product. The particles are large enough to minimize binding in clay soils and improve drainage, but not so large that they will damage machinery or the turf. If your existing soil structure is ready for pure sand top dressing, this is the correct product to use. Levelling with Silica is great for obtaining a really smooth surface, spreads easily, and improves drainage from the soils surface. This means that the moisture drains quickly from the surface, minimizing evaporation and disease probability. 

Organic compliments

Compost

Compost

Traditionally, compost is organic plant waste that goes through a controlled decomposition process to break down the matter to form a rich nutritional medium used to enrich soils. If the composting process is carried out correctly, it will contain a broad spectrum of nutrients as well as beneficial microorganisms, earthworms, fungi and bacteria. All of which is essential for soil life. Organic diversity satisfies a broader range of microbes. 

Un-sifted composts are great for mixing into garden beds, or mulching. For top dressing lawns, I recommend that you only use fully composted, sifted compost as any matter that still needs to decompose can cause physical obstructions on the surface, and even limit plant performance and induce insect and turf grass diseases. 

Mushroom compost

Mushroom Compost - sifted

Mushroom composts are 'usually' composts that include various manures. It is not made from mushrooms. This is an incredibly rich compost that will activate soil life without a doubt. If used on lawns, use only a thin layer per top dressing session and allow at least 4 weeks before another application.  Additionally, the phosphorus levels in certain manures can be high, and this needs to be limited for turf maintenance.  This is magical in your beds, but use it sparingly in potting mixes. 

Vermi-compost

This is compost where earthworms are used to assist the composting process. It usually contains the same or similar inputs that regular compost would, but with the addition of the earthworms.  Earthworms not only speed up the composting process considerably, they also contain enzymes in their digestive systems that are highly beneficial to soil life, deters pests and much more.  Again, only use the sifted versions for top dressing your lawns. 

Chicken manure unsifted

Chicken Manure

Chicken manure is my favorite manure for turf. This is because chicken manure has the highest Nitrogen content of all manure types. I have also found that it breaks down very quickly, which is great. Chicken manures are made from not only chicken pooh, but from all of the bedding matter and feed that was used in the chicken coops. They are scrapped and cleaned regularly, and that matter is mixed and composted thoroughly(hopefully). Chicken manure is usually weed free as the chickens don't consume weeds. However, this does not mean that it is 100% weed free.

Kraal Manure

Kraal Manure

Is made just like chicken manure is. All the pooh and organic matter from the kraal is scrapped up and composted. It is generally much higher in phosphorus than chicken manure so keep that in mind. The mix is also much courser than chicken manure and it is therefore not ideal for top dressing your lawn with it. Kraal manure often harbours more pathogens as some kraal animals digestive systems are different and they may also consume other animals, rodents etc. The chance of weeds germinating after using kraal manure is often, but not always, higher than chicken manure or even compost, as you can control the inputs in compost. 

Topsoils

Topsoil - unsifted

Topsoil - unsifted

Topsoil is usually your region/areas native soil. It is best to identify exactly what your supplier stocks. Plain Topsoil is great to fill your beds with, especially when mixing it with compost and manures, and is a great addition to your potting mixes. Un-sifted topsoil is not recommended for top dressing your lawn as it normally contains stones and clumps of hardened soil.

Topsoil - Sifted

Topsoil - sifted

As noted above, topsoil is whatever your native soil is. I enjoy using Vaal Bruin sifted topsoil for top dressing lawns inexpensively. It provides a good sandy structure that does not clump up easily and re-wets very well. Mixed with sifted compost or chicken manure, or even with a little extra silica, it can become a very powerful top dressing medium.

Mixes

Bowling Green 50/50 mix

Bowling Green 50/50 mix

This is a mix that contains Silica, Topsoil and kraal manure. It has been sifted as it's designed for turf maintenance. 

Divot mix

Divot Mix

This is also a Silica, Topsoil and Kraal manure mix, but with different proportion of each component. 

Lawn Dressing - garden grow

Lawn Dressing - garden grow

This is sifted topsoil with screened and weed free Kraal manure. Something like this is great for top dressing lawns with something nutritious, and that will have reasonable leveling properties. Remember, organic matter breaks down over time. So, too much organic matter will result in constant changes in the smoothness of your lawn.

Lawn Dressing - silica mix

Lawn Dressing - silica mix

This is basically the garden grow version but with extra Silica. So this would help you keep a smoother look for longer. 

Lawn dressing mix - topsoil & chicken manure

Lawn Dressing - topsoil and chicken manure

This lawn dressing is simply sifted topsoil mixed with chicken manure. Its fine, sandy texture brings sufficient nutrients to the party, eggs on some soil life and has good leveling properties. Its inexpensive and works well, even if you had a heavy clay base.

Landscaping soil

Landscaping soil

Landscaping soil is as it sounds. It's designed to grow plants in, and shape the landscape, without needing anything else. Fill your beds, plant your lawns on it etc. The picture I took is not the best. My apologies to the supplier! This is a great product that I use regularly. It will not only fill areas, it will fill them with life as well. It is made up of various un-sifted composted manures and topsoil. So it's definitely not for top dressing lawns.  

Watch these videos

To lean more about top dressing lawns and what soil types are best for the job!